Chasing Hippoz | Vito L Tanzi

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My Photography & Travel Guide to Étretat, France

Nestled along the alabaster cliffs of Normandy, Étretat is a coastal haven that’s been captivating artists, writers, and travelers for centuries. With its dramatic landscapes, quaint charm, and endless photography opportunities, this small town offers a perfect escape for those looking to capture the essence of France’s rugged beauty. Whether you're here to photograph its iconic cliffs or immerse yourself in its rich culture, Étretat promises an unforgettable experience.

Falaise d’Aval at Sunset

When I first saw photos of Étretat, I thought I was looking at photos of the white cliffs of Ireland. I then learned that a French TV series that I have been watching, Arsène Lupin, partially takes place in this town. My interest is definitely piqued!

Both of the French Impressionist painters Monet and Manet painted here.  Monet spent most of February 1883 in Étretat. He painted twenty views of the beach and the three extraordinary rock formations in the area: the Porte d'Aval, the Porte d'Amont, and the Manneporte. Ok, I am sold. How do I get there?

From the Western Side towards the Aiguille (Needle)

So Where is the Town Located?

Étretat is located in the north of France. It is about a 3-hour drive from Paris. The easiest way to reach Étretat is by car. But once you reach the town, you will not need to use your car until you leave.

From Paris

How Long Should you Stay in Étretat?

In my opinion, two nights is the optimal length of stay in Étretat. With two sunsets and two sunrises, you will have plenty of opportunities to capture its most iconic sights.

Sunset of the Arches & Aiguille

Where should you Stay?

Staying in the town center not only keeps you close to the cliffs and beaches but also immerses you in the heart of local life. You’ll find everything from quaint bakeries to charming cafés, all within walking distance.

We stayed in a wonderful small hotel called Les Tilleuls Etretat. The hotel is perfectly located in the heart of Etretat, 300 meters (yards) from the cliffs.

Les Tilleuls is a private mansion dating back to 1738 in a private house. It is owned by a Belgian family that took 3 years to renovate the hotel. They did an incredible job. The place is just beautiful. What made the stay so fantastic was the amazing service of the general manager, David. He is so personable and friendly that you will feel like you are staying in a family home.

Here are a few other options to consider:

Luxury Hotels

  1. Domaine Saint Clair - Le Donjon
    An elegant château offering stunning views of the cliffs, Domaine Saint Clair combines historical charm with modern luxury, making it a top choice for discerning travelers.

  2. Hôtel Dormy House
    Perched on a hill, this hotel offers panoramic views of the sea and cliffs, with spacious rooms and gourmet dining. It’s perfect for those who want a luxurious retreat.

  3. Le Manoir de la Salamandre
    This 14th-century manor house blends history with luxury, offering beautifully restored rooms and a cozy, intimate atmosphere.

Best Time of Year to Visit

The best time to visit Étretat is from late spring to early autumn (May to September). During these months, the weather is mild, and the days are long, providing ideal conditions for photography. However, visiting in the off-season (October to April) also has its perks—fewer crowds and a more serene atmosphere, perfect for those seeking tranquility.

Getting Around Étretat

Étretat is a small town, and most of the main attractions are within walking distance. For those looking to explore the surrounding areas, renting a bicycle or car is recommended. While Uber and Bolt are not widely available, local taxi services can be arranged through your hotel.

Where to Eat: Culinary Delights in Étretat

Étretat might be small, but it offers a delightful selection of dining options that cater to all tastes.

Restaurants

  1. Le Galion
    Located on the seafront, Le Galion offers fresh seafood with a side of spectacular ocean views.

  2. L'Huîtrière
    A charming bistro specializing in oysters and other seafood delicacies, perfect for a leisurely lunch.

  3. Le Bicorne
    Known for its traditional Norman cuisine, Le Bicorne offers hearty dishes in a cozy, rustic setting.

  4. La Marie Antoinette
    This charming restaurant serves up classic French dishes with a modern twist in a beautifully decorated space.

  5. Le Bel Ami
    A chic spot offering a menu that combines local flavors with contemporary flair, ideal for a romantic dinner.

Coffee Shops

  1. Le Romain d'Étretat
    A quaint café perfect for a morning coffee or a sweet afternoon treat.

  2. Le Café des Falaises
    Located near the cliffs, this café is a great spot for a break between photography sessions.

Photography Gear I Used

  • My Canon R5 camera. Any good DSLR or Mirrorless Camera will do Nikon Z7, 8, Fuji etc.

  • A wide-angle lens 15-35mm. The landscapes in Étretat are massive, so you need a wide lens to fit everything into the frame.

  • A medium telephoto, such as 70-200mm. This will come in handy when you need to zoom in on the subject.

  • A good, sturdy tripod so you can take photos at sunrise and sunset. Also, the wind in Normandy can be quite strong.

  • Neutral-density filters (3, 6, and 10). You will be shooting near water which is perfect for long exposures

Photographing the White Cliffs of Étretat

Because Étretat is so small, there are only a handful of photography locations to photograph. If you look at the diagram below, you will want to photograph 3 locations: 1) the West Side (to the Left as you look out from the beach), 2) on the Beach, and 3) the East Side (or Right side as you look out from the beach). But trust me when I say that these will be more than enough to keep you busy for at least a couple of days.

Photo 1, 2,3 are on the West Side (LEFT SIDE) then Photo 4 is from Beach and on the Opposite Side is the Eastern Locations or RIGHT SIDE (Photo 5)

The East Side Cliffs (On the RIGHT) of Étretat and Porte d’Amont Arch

On the East side of Étretat (Photo Point 5 (also called Falaise d’Amont), is a thin alabaster ridge that stretches out almost 120 meters into the English Channel. At its tip, you will catch sight of the smallest of Étretat’s natural arches – Porte d’Amont. The walk up to the top takes about 10-15 minutes, and it is quite steep. But that path is well paved and easy to follow. This is a great sunset location.

From the Eastern Side at Sunset

There are lots of photos to be made from the top

These 2 tourists were right on the Edge

Here is another view

Eastern Ridge Shooting Away from the Town

To get to the top of the cliff, take the long 350-step stairs from the right side of the beach (15 minutes of walking). It is a steep climb, but the pathway is easy to follow. Once you are at the top, there are plenty of nice images to take along the coastline, including the chapel and the gardens.

Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde Chapel (Also on the Right Side)

On the Eastern Side, you will also find the Chapelle of Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde. It is a picturesque church that can be seen from the beach as well as the opposite cliffs on the western side.

The Gardens of Étretat (on the Right Side)

Just across the road from the Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde chapel is the Gardensat), and it is probably the most underappreciated of Étretat (Les Jardins D’Étret photography location in Étretat. It costs about 5 Euros to enter, and it is beautifully well done. The most interesting feature is the sculptures of faces that you see throughout the gardens.

The Smiling Sculptures of the Gardens

Inspired by Monet's paintings, the French actress Madame Thébault created Etretat Gardens in 1905 by planting the very first tree. It was not until 2015, with landscape architect Alexander Grivko, that the gardens were restored and became what they are today. These gardens overlook the white chalk cliffs, offering a breathtaking panorama.


The Étretat Beach

Étretat’s beach is also a good photo spot and a wonderful place to relax. There is a nice view of the sea, the fisherman boats scattered along the shore, and the rock formations.

Fisherman on the Beach at Sunrise

It is an especially convenient location when you do not have enough time to explore the other vantage points. And yet, I wouldn’t necessarily call it quick or easy. There is no readily available composition here, so you will have to search for one yourself.

I loved the pebble beach…

The beach cliffs at sunset are just stunning

and at sunset its just magical

The Western Side--Porte d’Aval & Manneporte Arches (THE LEFT SIDE)

On the opposite side of the bay, west of Étretat, there is a similar but even more striking rock formation. There is a staircase on the left side of the beach that takes you to the top. The path is well-marked and easy to follow, and you should reach the top in about 15 minutes. Unfortunately, it is quite steep. This is a great sunrise location.

Once you reach the top, you will literally be standing on top of the Porte d’Aval arch.

Sunsrise

If you keep walking towards the west, away from Étretat, you will see the third natural arch of Étretat – Manneporte (Falaise d’Aval).

Final thoughts

Étretat is a must-visit destination for landscape photographers or any photographer. The alabaster coast of northern Normandy, which Étretat is part of, provides endless opportunities for stunning photos and will undoubtedly leave you breathless.

If you enjoyed this Photography & Travel guide, I have 70 more Travel Guides at this link.

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